10-Dec-2023
Bosnia-Herzegovina (BiH) is a phenomenally complex polity. Its two constituent entities are the Republika Srpska and the Federation of Bosna i Hercegovina (FBiH).
Banja Luka is the capital of the first of these.
We didn't have the most auspicious of beginnings; we've not had the best of weather; and from what I read, the city and region definitely have their challenges.
But for the casual visitor, Banja Luka is a pleasant place. It's open and spacious, with lots of parkland and trees, and some fine buildings; it's not in the least touristy; and the people we've encountered have all been welcoming:
The city's oldest monument, which has soldiered on through many turbulent centuries, is the Kastel Fortress, on the left bank of the river Vrbas. Its origins probably go back to prehistoric times, but the first to make an enduring mark were the Romans:
Some of the Roman bits
The fortification was extended during Ottoman times (the most important upgrade dated from 1714-16, and was based on plans by Vauban). It declined in military significance when the city came under Austro-Hungarian rule. Today you can wander round quite freely, enjoying its very photogenic qualities:
Banja Luka is a city with a lot of bad memories:
Commemorating the victims of the Jasenovac concentration camp
The Ferhat Pasha Mosque, constructed under the Ottomans in 1579. It was demolished in 1993, during the Bosnian War, along with many other mosques. Rebuilding started in 2007, and it was reopened in 2016. Sadly, it wasn't open when we visited
Christ the Saviour Cathedral is another religious establishment that was destroyed during wartime. It was hit by German bombs in 1941, and Croatia's right-wing Ustashas subsequently ordered its complete demolition. Reconstruction began in 1993, and it reopened in 2009
Vestiges of the original church
Inside, it is gorgeous
What else? Well, aside from enjoying a slightly different range of meats and cheeses, we'll be remembering a couple more food highlights:
Pita zeljanica, or spinach pie. Another of the phyllo-pastry things that eastern Europe is so good at. We just bought ours from the MojMarket next door. Which also, by the way, does really nice hot dishes. This afternoon we had sausages, roasted vegetables, and potato-and-spinach. Very tasty, and good value
Bosnian mulled wine definitely stands up to comparisons with its German and Slovenian cousins
The wine came from Banja Luka's Christmas market
This place was a great find
It serves "knedle". These dumplings are made from a potato-based dough, and can be filled with all sorts of things. These are the raspberry ones. Totally delish
So, we move on again tomorrow.
It's supposed to be a three-hour bus journey. We're hoping -- so hoping -- that it will be more comfortable than the last one...