155489
14-Jan-2024
 
I've mentioned already that we're great fans of the Vardar, and every Skopje day starts by covering a stretch of its banks:

river

bridge

brut&mountain
The State Hydrometeorological Institute, with snowy mountains behind. This is also an example of brutalist architecture (see below)

statue&tower
And, of course, along the city stretch of the river, you can always take in a few more statues...

fmstatue

If you go west, you can go out via the river and come back via an extensive park (or vice versa):

girl&dog
The park

mothert

frozen

You don't get far into any description of Skopje without reading about "brutalist architecture". So today, inspired by Vito Valentinetti's blog, we went in search of some examples.

Brutalism emerged after World War II. It strives for honesty, simplicity, austerity, and functionality; its trademarks are geometric forms, simple lines, rough surfaces, and monochromatic palettes. Skopje's Saints Cyril and Methodius University is a great example:

uni1

uni2

uni3

inst
The Macedonian Academy of Sciences and Arts

pos
The Post Office and Telecommunications Center

reflecs

All these are very recognizably brutalist. Sometimes you're not sure, though:

tv&radio
National Radio and Television... Valentinetti lists this as brutalist, but I'm not so sure...

clem1
Likewise St Clement of Ohrid...

clem2

Of course, all these explorations need coffee support, which is never difficult to find in Skopje. Opposite St Clem's, there's a branch of Mikel, a Greek coffee chain. The setting is a big Starbucksy, but the coffee was good, as was the apple tart.

Also nice was Coffee Shop 091:

tinycap
This shop sells tiny-teeny cappuccini

It's hard to believe that we're moving on tomorrow. The time in Skopje seems to have gone incredibly quickly. The Ibis here has been great. The staff are very welcoming, and we've had a reasonably spacious room, equipped with a kettle and a fridge. I loved the buffet breakfasts... I will particularly miss the lentil soup, the sesame rolls stuffed with white cheese and lutenitsa, and the croissants (these are always good at Accor hotels -- we think they send out a master recipe -- but here you can enjoy your croissants with butter and rosehip jam...). We were still owed our welcome drink by this evening, our last, so we drank to Skopje's health with a little farewell bottle of wine down in the bar:

wine