Kudeejeen (or Kudichin -- Thai transliteration is notoriously mobile) is a fascinating little area across the river in Thonburi.

It's usually labelled an "old Portuguese community", but actually the first inhabitants (who arrived after the Burmese attacked and sacked Ayutthaya in 1767, resulting in the designation of Thonburi as the new capital), included not only Portuguese (rewarded with land for helping to drive out the Burmese), but also Chinese Buddhists, Chinese converts to Catholicism, and Muslims.

"The result is a multicultural community that survives today."

It's delightful.

We started in Wat Kalayanamit, which is where the cross-river ferry arrives. This temple houses a large and beautiful seated Buddha. It also houses the loveliest gong... There are other things for worshippers to percuss, but the gong was the best, sending out deep sonorous vibrations.






Next we got lost a bit... But it's such a beautiful, pleasant place that a bit of lostness didn't unduly matter.





We finally spotted a sign to the bakery and the museum. Even then, as you trot along the narrow walkways, you're far from convinced you're heading in the right direction... But yes, here's the museum. Beyond (says another sign) is the Thanusingha Bakery House.

You need to find this because it supplies not only excellent coffee and a nice homely environment to drink it in (just remember to take your shoes off), but also the famous, Portugese-inspired "kanom farang kudeejeen". These little cakes have a crumbly interior, and a delicately crispy outer shell. They reminded me of the trifle sponges of childhood.



The museum also does its bit for Portugese cuisine. In the elegantly situated ground-floor cafe, you can try a "sappayak bun", stuffed with a mixture of minced pork, potatoes, and chilli (very tasty, I just regret not ordering two).



The museum itself, housed in a renovated version of a family home built 80 or so years ago, is an intimate look into the life of a Thai-Portuguese household. We couldn't help but be reminded of Melaka's Portuguese community.






I loved these transliterations of Thai religious texts -- an early form of "karaoke Thai", perhaps?



We couldn't go inside Santa Cruz Church, but its imposing tower dominates the little neighbourhood. There's a Christian school nearby.



The neighbourhood is also home to the exquisite Kuan An Keng Shrine. You can't take photos inside so I can't show you the collection of Guan Yin statues, copiously garlanded with pearl necklaces in white, silver, pink, and mauve. Moving, somehow... If you give someone a pearl necklace, you're so clearly acknowledging her preciousness.





Our last stop was Wat Prayoon, with its gorgeous white chedi, which announces its presence in the klong before you even get there.





Kudeejeen is a little time capsule -- and so very vulnerable. Let's hope it survives...