Day 34 (29 June)

It's hard not to keep photographing our neighbouring mosque. It is just so beautiful...


Nearby is the really interesting area of Ulus, which has been the subject of a substantial restoration and regeneration programme.






And then there's all the Roman stuff...

One really notable landmark is the Temple of Augustus, which is significant for its "Monument Ancyranum". This inscription -- written on the walls of the temple in Latin and Greek after the death of Augustus, the first Roman emperor, in 14 AD -- is the most complete extant version of his "autobiography".

There's no point in being modest in such circumstances:

"Aged nineteen I mustered an army on my personal instigation and at my personal expense, and with it I liberated the state, which had been oppressed by a despotic faction... I have often conducted wars by land and sea, civil and foreign, across the whole world, and as victor I was merciful to all citizens who asked for pardon... I have captured 600 ships... Twice I have celebrated triumphal ovations and three times I have driven triumphal chariots... Even though the post of dictator was conferred upon me..., I did not accept it... I did not decline to manage the corn-supply during a very severe grain shortage, and I administered it in such a way that within a few days I freed the entire community from pressing fear and danger through my expenditure and supervision..."

Etc.

Oh, to be so very, very sure of yourself...

Right up against the ruined walls of the temple is the shrine of Haci Bayram Veli.





Another remarkable imperial sight is the Roman Baths, probably erected in the years 212-217 during the reign of Emperor Caracalla. The complex also preserves a number of Roman tombstones and other artefacts.










Ankara is home to a huge number of museums, and this afternoon we tackled what is loosely termed the "carpet museum", but is actually the repository of all kinds of artefacts that have at some point been gifted to mosques. (Its official name is the Vakif Eserleri Muzesi.) It's absolutely free, and it's full of wonderful stuff.













Day 35 (30 June)

A mundane trip to the launderette to start the morning, but one that again will form the stuff of nice memories. Despite the language barriers, the courteous and helpful staff showed us how to work the various machines, gave us tea, and even offered to share their breakfast with us.

Next, Anitkabir, the Mausoleum of Ataturk.

It's a popular place, and there were crowds of people on this bright Sunday morning. I heard no languages other than Turkish. There were lots of fresh graduates having their photos taken in front of the Mausoleum; we even saw a bride and groom, in full regalia, obviously also there for ceremonial pictures.

Everything about the complex is designed to inspire awe.

Huge figures ushering you in:



A long approach, flanked by trees and Hittite-style lions:



A massive square, dominated by the Mausoleum:


Symbolic characters and weighty words:



The changing of the guard:



And, of course, the tomb itself:


Very interesting. Another glimpse of the power of the past.