We skimped on Madrid to have more time in Spain's fifth-largest city, Zaragoza.

So far (it's our third day today), it's been really rewarding -- lots of history and interest, lots of places to walk, and a distinct lack of touristy commercialism.

We got here on the fast train from Madrid, which takes 1.25 hours. The scenery is very impressive, with big, wide views very effectively revealing the sheer vastness of Spain.



If you need left-luggage facilities in Zaragoza (we did, because we couldn't get into our apartment until 4 pm), EUR 5 secures you a really big locker (capable of swallowing two big bags, two small bags, and probably you into the bargain).

We're staying in the old town, in an atmospheric little street.






Zaragoza has some impressive Roman heritage (most obviously the mighty bridge spanning the Ebro).


But the majority of its interesting buildings date from later periods.

The Aljaferia Palace (which can be visited for free on Sundays) is really impressive -- "the result of a distinct thousand year history, during which it has been successively used as a royal palace, seat of the Inquisition, military barracks and since 1985, seat of the Aragonese Cortes".


The beginning of the 11th century, after the collapse of the Cordoba caliphate, saw the rise of small Islamic principalities called taifas (literally: factions). The Zaragoza taifa was powerful and influential, and controlled the northern frontier of Islam in this part of the world. Its most brilliant period was the reign of Abu Yafar Ahmad al Muqtadir (whose life roughly covered the second half of the 11th century). He was the one who constructed the Royal Palace of the Aljaferia. Its beauty -- it was influenced, we are told, by the Ummayad palaces of the Syrian desert -- reaches down through the centuries.










A number of renovations and extensions were superimposed on this original Islamic structure during the 14th and 15th centuries.







Given the additions, the palace is a good place to start learning about the UNESCO-listed Mudejar architecture, which flourished in Aragon from the 12th to the early 17th centuries:

"This art, influenced by Islamic tradition, also reflects various contemporary European styles, particularly the Gothic. ...[I]t is characterized by an extremely refined and inventive use of brick and glazed tiles in architecture, especially in the belfries."

And indeed, walking around Zaragoza, you can't help but be impressed by the brickwork...





Another notable objective is the Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar. The story goes that the Virgin Mary appeared here to St James (Santiago) to encourage him in his mission to evangelize Spain. She appeared on a pillar, which she left behind as testimony. A chapel was built around the pillar, and over the centuries more and more layers of cathedral were added until we arrived at the truly enormous structure we see today.

The image on the pillar has at her disposal more than 550 changes of cape (endowed by the faithful over the years). But on the 2nd, 12th, and 20th of the month, no cape is put on, and the silver cover of the pillar can be seen. We visited yesterday (2 March), and sure enough -- no cape. Today, however -- cape (purple).

This is a very atmospheric church, with a regular flow of worshippers arriving to pray at the shrine, and kneel at the back of the chapel to kiss the pillar. We lit a few of the electric candles. We feel we need all the protection we can get right now...





A stone's throw away is another notable place of worship: La Seo de San Salvador. Whereas the Basilica is free to enter, this one costs EUR 4. But it's very much worth it.

The no-photos rule is strictly enforced here, so I have nothing to show you.

But imagine an enormous, soaring building, whose four internal sides are lined with sumptuously decorated chapels dating from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Each elaborate facade is different, and each chapel has differently beautiful paintings, carvings, sculptures, domes, vaults, and tombs. One of the most striking is St Bernard's Chapel, said to be one of the most significant examples of Aragonese Renaissance art. But I also loved the 15th-century image in the Chapel of the White Virgin.

In the middle of the church, a choir area is screened off on four sides by another, smaller series of chapels and sculptures.

On the north side, dating from the 15th century, there's an absolutely exquisite alabaster altarpiece, whose warm tones and layers of intricate detail don't easily let your eyes move on.

To the east is the stairway leading up to the Tapestry Museum. Again, stunning. These pieces date from the 15th and 16th centuries, yet their blues and reds glow with life. They mostly represent biblical scenes, but as the figures dress and behave according to their creators' eras, they are also wonderful little bits of social history.





So, big tick for Zaragoza up to now. Well worth devoting time to.