16-Oct-2024
Today was super-foggy. The forecast had been for super-foggy AND super-rainy, but the precipitation bit of the prediction didn't materialize. We'd actually planned to use the wet day to go to the Manx Museum, but having eaten brunch in Douglas, walked a bit, and realized it STILL wasn't raining, we decided just to carry on walking, and headed off up the hill to Onchan.
First, up past Lourdes Grotto, built in the 1960s as a replica of the real thing, but behind locked gates when we visited:
And then up to St Peter's, whose atmospheric site could keep you busy for hours.
St Peter's, looking wonderful in the mist
The current building dates back to 1833, but it replaced an earlier church originating from the 12th century. That was the one in which William Bligh (of Bounty fame) married Elizabeth Betham on 4 February 1781. There are a number of connections between the Isle of Man and this famous mutiny (we've seen one on this trip already, and there's further explanation here).
That 12th-century church, in turn, was erected on or near the site of an even earlier Celtic place of worship dedicated to Saint Conchan (or Connaghyn), a sixth-century holy man reputed to be one of the earliest of the Manx bishops.
According to the burial records available in the church, I definitely have relatives buried here, most significantly a great-grandfather, and a grandmother who's a particularly tragic figure. We couldn't locate the graves, but realizing they were here was a poignant moment
The interior of the current church is simple, but there is some beautiful staind glass
A number of the Manx crosses displayed here derive from the burial ground of the early Celtic keill
This stone pillar, built into the churchyard wall, was traditionally (and misogynistically) known as the whipping post. It's more probably the last of a semi-circle of stones marking a prehistoric burial site
Onchan has a number of attractive houses. The picture at the top of this post shows Molly Carrooin's Cottage. Originally used as a weaving shed, it possibly dates back to the 1740s, making it the oldest building in Onchan. But there are others:
Built in 1842, this was designed by John Welch, who was also the architect behind the Tower of Refuge in Douglas Bay
Many are just plain colourful
Meanwhile, not far from the church, you can get a friendly cup of tea at The Nutty Chef Cafe before heading off down the hill to Douglas: