17-Oct-2025
A keeill is an ancient chapel. The earliest of them date from about 500, and the remains of more than 30 still exist on the Island.
Lag ny Keeilley is one such. The name means Chapel in the Hollow, and it sits at the foot of Cronk ny Arrey Laa. You reach it by way of Eary Cushlin, a large old house now owned by Manx National Heritage (and the site of at least one memorable New Year's houseparty back in the day).
Keeills are often termed "'thin places', where the gap between earth and heaven is especially fragile". There was something of that feel about today's walk.
Not that it started that way... The beginning, in fact, had more than a little of the farcical about it.
We followed the instructions in our walks book, but ended up drawing a complete blank. The green way we were supposed to start off on was marked closed. We weren't sure whether that sign also included pedestrians, but decided to risk walking down to where our turn-off was supposed to be. But the "wide track" of the description just wasn't there. Not wanting to blunder around in the heather, we retraced our steps, and drove down to the start of the access road to Eary Cushlin.
By then it was time for lunch, we thought, as the whole expedition was running somewhat late.
Sandwiches consumed, we set off, and had gone a reasonable distance along the rough track before the Other Tern realized he'd left his phone in the car. We return to collect it.
So... by now we're on Take 3. And this time we did manage to reach our destination:
Starting off on Take 1
South Barrule seems to be everywhere these days...
Heading back to the car on Take 2
Finally, we're properly on our way, and you can already see this is going to be worth it...
It's a lonely bit of coast
This is Eary Cushlin. You can rent it, if you like...
Walking over here does feel a bit like this at times...
The path is the green streak on the left...
...and it's a teentsy bit tricky... It's rough; it's narrow; it slopes hard down to the right; and beyond is a very, very steep slope. If you inadvertently go off piste here, it would be hard not to tumble a very long way...
What was amazing about today, though, was its utter, utter stillness... All we could hear was this waterfall plashing gently into the sea:
Finally, below us are the remains of the ancient keeill and hermit's cell...
...where you can reward yourself with a judicious quantity of chocolate brazils...
...and admire the plummeting coastline
Looking back, as we retraced our footsteps, sloping to the left this time
Again, this preternatural quiet... We stopped half-way back, and listened to the sound of absolutely nothing. No waves, no wind; no birds, no people.
A little piece of enchantment.