132896
07-Apr-2019

Despite our initial hesitation, Miri has grown on us. We've adjusted to climbing on and off those stonking kerbs, dealing with the baffling junctions near our hotel, and peering out round the bushes of the central reservation to watch for a gap in the traffic (because functioning green men are few and far between). Despite the fact that something always seems to be BITING us, we've grown fond of the Seahorse City.

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And there's really lots to do here. Even aside from our two days out of town, we've been very happily occupied.

At the mouth of the massively remodelled Miri River stands the Waterfront Temple. It's just a collection of shrines really, but there was a steady trickle of worshippers while we were there, and it was quite atmospheric.

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San Ching Tian (the temple we were trying to reach when we got waylaid by Hai Long Si) is reputedly the largest Taoist temple in Southeast Asia. The San Ching are the Three Pure Ones, Taoism's highest deities.

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So close to Hai Long Si... Can't believe we missed it first time round...

The flowing design and pastel colours are very beautiful, but San Ching Tian's chief drawcard is its tranquillity. Outside, under the eaves, are windchimes. Inside, there are two types of hangings: large cylindrical ones, and long oblong ones, which divide half way down into four streamers, each carrying a chime. Breezes enter freely through the big open doors, causing the hangings to sway, and randomly sounding the windchimes inside and out.

Described like this, it doesn't sound like much, but it's actually quite mesmerizing. Just absorbing those sounds, and watching the slow movement of the huge hangings, offers another of those rare and precious opportunities to just be, to live -- however briefly -- in the moment.

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I've talked about Tua Pek Kong already, but its night-time splendour deserves special mention.

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Miri is also rich in beaches, and it's been really nice to spend time by the sea while we've been here.

Central Park is a good place to be for sunset, as the support vessels thrum-thrum their way home from the oil platforms, and Mirians take advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures to walk and jog.

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A little south of Tanjung Lobang beach is the Luak Esplanade. During the daytime, this area is quite quiet, and there are plenty of shady seats.

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A hermit crab in a what-was-I-thinking kind of shell

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Still see him?

About 25 km down the coast from Miri is Baraya beach. Here you can find Tim's Seaside Hideout Cafe and Lodge (which makes an excellent stopping-off point after your Niah trip).

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Another 15 km south is Tusan Beach, set beneath a crumbly cliff. It's very pretty, but for us it will be chiefly memorable as the place where we heard that our MM2H applications had been approved (yay!).

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Miri also has a cute little suburban park, the Taman Awam, that deserves attention. The aerial walkways, greenery, and kiddies' splash pool all make for a laid-back, pleasant atmosphere.

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And I haven't talked about the food yet...